The Beginnings of San Francisco

INTRODUCTION

CHAPTER I.
THE DISCOVERY OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1769
The Portolá Expedition—Sergeant Ortega—The Deer Hunters—Ortega's Progress Interrupted—The Bay from Telegraph Hill

CHAPTER II.
EXPLORATION OF THE BAY OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1770-1775
A New Province of Spain—Expedition of Fages—Llano de Los Robles—Rio de San Francisco—Expedition of Rivera—Camp of the First Expedition—The Palo Alto—Cañada de San Andrés—Cross on Point Lobos—Sea Expedition of Don Bruno de Heceta—Lieutenant Ayala—The San Cárlos Enters San Francisco Bay—Isla de Los Angeles—Isla de Alcatraces—Bahia Redonda—Puerto Dulce—Laguna de la Merced

CHAPTER III.
EL CAMINO DEL DIABLO, 1774
Juan Bautista de Anza—His First Expedition—Across the Papaguería—Sonoyta—Camino del Diablo—Las Tinajas Altas—The Colorado River—Palma, Chief of the Yumas—Anza Reaches the End of the Known Trail

CHAPTER IV.
THE PASSAGE OF THE COLORADO DESERT, 1774
Crossing the Rio Colorado—The Yuma Indians—March Down the Colorado River—Laguna de Santa Olalla—Anza Essays the Desert Without Guides—Lost in the Sand-hills—Narrow Escape of the Expedition—Retreat to the River—Soldiers on Foot—Palma Welcomes their Return—The Passage Accomplished

CHAPTER V.
EL CAMINO REAL, 1774
Over the San Jacinto Mountains—The Royal Pass of San Cárlos—Down the San Jacinto River—Arrival at San Gabriel—Up the Coast—San Luis Obispo—Mission of San Antonio—Down the Salinas—Arrival at Monterey—Joy at the Presidio and Mission—Starts on His Return—Meets Father Junípero—Fertility of California—Rejoicing of the Yumas—Passage of the Colorado—Up the Rio Gila—Peace Among the Tribes—Reaches Tucson—Arrival at Tubac

CHAPTER VI.
THE FOUNDATION OF SAN FRANCISCO, 1775-1776
Anza Promoted—Authorized to Raise Company for San Francisco—A Great Expedition—Pedro Font Named for Chaplain—The Start from Horcasitas—Cañon of San Ignacio—The Start from Tubac—Reach the Gila—Sickness—Across the Desert of the Gila Bend—Down the Gila—Welcomed by Captain Palma—Palma Desires Missions on the Colorado—The Chief Decorated—Passage of the Rio Colorado-Sufferings in the Desert—Passage of the Cordillera—Heavy Loss of Cattle—Pass of San Cárlos—Distress at Snow—Passage of the Rio de Santa Ana—Arrival at San Gabriel—Revolt at San Diego—Rivera Asks for Loan of Troops—To San Diego—The March to Monterey Resumed—San Buenaventura—Mescaltitan—La Laguna (Santa Barbara)—San Luis Obispo—The Salinas Valley—San Antonio—Arrival at Monterey—Father Junípero—Sudden Illness of Anza—Departs for Peninsula of San Francisco—San Benito—Rio del Pájaro—Las Llages—Santa Clara Valley—San Francisquito—Camp at Mountain Lake—Lobos Creek—Font's Description of the Bay—Anza Selects Site for Fort and Presidio—Arroyo de los Dolores, Site for Mission—Rio de Guadalupe—San Pablo Bay—Carquinez Strait—Suisun Bay—San Joaquin River—Anza Sees the Sierra Nevada—Puerto Dulce—Return to Monterey—A Sad Day at the Presidio—Anza Starts on His Return to Tubac—Meets Rivera—Discourtesy of Rivera—Perilous Crossing of the Rio Colorado—A Long Swim—Across the Papaguería—San Miguel Horcasitas—Anza's Character—Moraga Takes the Expedition to San Francisco—Founding of the Presidio and Mission

CHAPTER VII.
COLONIZATION, 1769-1836
The Mission Scheme of Colonization—Description of the Missions—Their Great Wealth—Secularization Their Destiny—The Presidial Soldiers—Settlers Enlisted—Founding of Los Angeles—Villa de Branciforte—San José de Guadalupe—Land Grants to Settlers—Artisans Imported—Convict Settlers—Costansó's Report—Military Establishment—Mission Lands—Decree of Secularization—Governor Figueroa's Reglamento

CHAPTER VIII.
SECULARIZATION
Denunciation of the Secularization—De Mofras—Wilkes—Bryant—Robinson—Government Control—Spain Announces the End for which Missions were Established, and their Fulfilment—Secularization No Wrong to the Church—Looting Begun—Híjar—Padrés Scheme—Figueroa Interferes—Missionaries Slaughter Cattle—Lands and Property Distributed to Indians—Death of Figueroa—Administration of Alvarado—Secularization a Benefit to California—The Era of Missions closed

CHAPTER IX.
THE GOLDEN AGE
The California of the Spaniards—A Chain of Missions—Private Ranchos in 1830—Families of Soldiers—The Good Eatables of California—The Remarkable Virtues of El Polin—Origin of the Mission Grape—Founders of California Families—The Handsome Hijo del Pais—The Courage of the Caballero—Beautiful Women—Attempt to Establish Schools—Sola and Echeandea Interest Themselves in Education of the People—No Trade in California in Eighteenth Century—American Ships Visit California—Trade in Fur Animals—Free Licences to Take Otter and Seals—Lima Traders—Trade in Hides and Tallow—Boston Ships—Floating Shops—Smuggling—Richard H. Dana, Jr.—Honest Trade Cannot Compete with the Smugglers—First Land Grant—Reglamento of 1773—Colonists Encouraged—Land Grants to Foreigners—Foreigners Required to Become Mexican Citizens—Limit to Size of Grants—Method Followed in Obtaining Grants—American Immigrants—Comments of Bartlett, Simpson, and Others—Daughters of Bandini, Argüello, De la Guerra, Carrillo, Vallejo, etc.—Marriage of Americans with California's Daughters—Don Tomas Yorba—Costume of a California Don—Women's Dress—Race Improvement in California—Courtesy Universal—A Californian's Word—A Guaranty from Agustin Machado—No Jail in San Francisco—California Hospitality

CHAPTER X.
EDUCATION, TRADE, LAND GRANTS
The Soldier Schoolmasters—Limited Facilities for Learning—Borica's Schools—Land Commission—Its Operation—Californians Lose Their Lands

CHAPTER XI.
SPANISH ADMINISTRATION, 1769-1846
A Military Government—The Presidio—The Small Military Establishment—The Russians in California—Captain Bouchard—A Territory of the Republic—Revolt of Neophytes—Vallejo—Alvarado—Isaac Graham—Expulsion of Gutierrez—Alvarado Made Governor—California a Department—Forts Abandoned—Vallejo Asks to be Relieved of Command—Arrivals of Armed Bands of Foreigners—Micheltorena and His Cholos—Commodore Jones Takes Monterey—Jones Apologizes—Micheltorena Driven Out

CHAPTER XII.
THE FOREIGNERS (LOS EXTRANJEROS), 1795-1846
The Boston Nation—O'Cain Refused Permission to Settle—John Gilroy—Thomas Doak—Number of Foreigners in 1820—Richardson—Livermore—First Trappers from United States—Jedediah Smith—The Pattie Party—First Organized Overland Expedition—Search for the Humboldt River—A Desperate Journey—John Bidwell—Large Emigration from United States—Mexico Orders that no Foreigners be Permitted to Enter California—John A. Sutter—Sutter's Fort—Alvarado Arrests Foreigners—Americans Take Part in Political Revolution—Action of Bear Flag Party—Frémont and His Acts—Mormon Pilgrimage—Sloat Ends Bear Flag War—Kearny in Command

CHAPTER XIII.
THE COMING OF THE ARGONAUTS, 1849-1850
Early Gold Discoveries—Discovery by Marshall on American Fork Mason's—Report—Rush to the Mines—Desertions of Soldiers and Sailors—Excitement in San Francisco—Military Force in California—Difficulties of Civil Administration—General Smith Arrives—Pacific Mail—First Steamer—Sufferings of Immigrants—The Overland Route—Suffering in the Desert—Starvation, Cholera, Scurvy—The Lassen Route—The Carson Route—Twenty Thousand Immigrants in the Desert—Army Relief—Immigration of 1850—More Suffering—Havoc Among Immigrants—Fifteen Thousand Starving—Immigrants Reach Sacramento Valley—Aid by Miners—Land Troubles—Plan of Rob Roy—Halleck's Report—Mission Property Seized by Immigrants—Mason Interferes—Foreigners Driven from Mines—Lawlessness—General Riley Calls for Delegates to Constitutional Convention—Prominent Men of the Convention—Constitution Formed—Election of State Government—Riley Resigns to New Government the Administration of Civil Affairs—Recklessness of the Miners—Mingling of Classes—Advantages of Association

CHAPTER XIV.
EL PARAJE DE YERBA BUENA, 1792-1839
The Anchorage of Yerba Buena Cove—George Vancouver—First Structure at Yerba Buena—Vancouver Entertained—Kotzebue—Morrell—Beechey—Dana—Richardson'sTent—The Vallejo Line—Establishment of Ayuntamiento—Town Laid out by Richardson—Leese Builds First House—Store on Beach—Nathan Spear—Kent Hall—Hinckley

CHAPTER XV.
THE VILLAGE OF YERBA BUENA, 1839-1846
Survey by Vioget—First Map of the Village—O'Farrell's Survey—Richardson's Temescal—Fuller —Thompson—Davis—Hinckley's Bridge at Lagoon on Montgomery Street—Ridley—Brown—Portsmouth House—Leese Sells to Hudson's Bay Company—Visit of Simpson—Death of Rae—Hudson's Bay Company Sells to Mellus and Howard—Juana Briones—Sherreback—Leidesdorff—City Hotel—First Steamer on Bay—Custom House—The Bad Taste of Ellis' Whisky—W. D. M. Howard—First Brick Building—Noé—Guerrero—George Hyde Succeeds Bryant—Arrival of Stevenson's Regiment—Personnel of Officers—First Bank in San Francisco—The Russ Family—Election of Town Council—Ratification of Peace

CHAPTER XVI.
THE CONQUEST, 1846-1847
The Portsmouth at San Francisco—Montgomery Raises the Flag—Militia Company Formed—Fort Montgomery—Arrival of the Brooklyn—A Night Alarm—Bartlett Appointed Alcalde—Visit of Stockton—Capture of Alcalde Bartlett by the Enemy—The Battle of Santa Clara—Bryant Succeeds Bartlett—George Hyde—Arrival of Stevenson's Regiment—Personnel—Translation of Geographical Names

CHAPTER XVII.
SAN FRANCISCO, 1847-1850
Relief of Donner Party—Fourth of July—Population—Sale of Lots—Peter Smith Sales—Limantour Claim—Santillan Grant—Beach and Water Lots—Landing Place—First Wharf—Central Wharf—Other Wharves—Building on Piles—Tehama House—Steinberger's Beef Speculation—Vessels in Harbor—Over importation of Goods—Imprisoned Vessels—The Niantic—Abandoned Ships—Talbot H. Green—Ward and Smith—The "New York Store"—The First Postmaster—Parker—DeWitt and Harrison—Hotels of San Francisco—St. Francis—Ward House—Tehama—Union—Oriental—First Newspaper—Schools—Churches—Doctor Fourgeaud—Forty Thousand Immigrants in San Francisco—Happy Valley—Pleasant Valley—Spring Valley—Saint Ann's Valley—Early Construction—Fire—Fire Department Organized—Improvement in Buildings—The Plague of Rats—Dreadful Streets—People Drowned in Mud of Montgomery Street—Town Full of Thieves and Gamblers—The Hounds—Hall McAllister—Legislative Assembly—General Riley Pronounces the Body an Unlawful Organization—Orders Election of Ayuntamiento—Prefect Horace Hawes—John W. Geary—Prison Brig Euphemia—Scarcity of Coin—Gold Dust as Circulating Medium—Profits of Merchants—Prices of Commodities—Forced Sales of Cargoes—Fall in Prices—Rents—Real Estate Prices—Potrero Laid Out—A Preacher's Dilemma—General Smith Reports Against San Francisco—Removes Depot to Benicia—General Prosperity of City—Improvement in Dress and Manners—The Gamblers—Washerwomen's Lagoon—Honest Harry Mieggs—Excursion to Old Spanish Fort—Road to Mission—Dignity of Labor—Drinking and Gambling—Interest in Better Things—Growth of Civic Pride and Establishment of Social Order—The Charter of 1850

APPENDICES
A.  The Presidio of San Francisco
B.  The Streets of San Francisco
C.  Bucaréli to Rivera
D.  The Murder of Berreyesa and the De Haros
E.  Bibliography

NOTES
1.  San Cárlos Borromeo
2.  Punta de los Reyes
3.  José Francisco Ortega
4.  San Buenaventura
5.  Don Pedro Fages
6.  The San Cárlos, alias El Toison de Oro
7.  Arizona
8.  Francisco Eusebio Kino
9.  Las Tinajas Altas
10.  Captain Feo
11.  The Royal Pass of San Cárlos
12.  Soldiers of the Expedition
13.  Bac—Tubac—Tucson
14.  Destruction of the Missions of the Colorado
15.  The Colorado Desert
16.  Rio de Santa Ana
17.  Santa Barbara
18.  Mescaltitan
19.  Junípero Serra
20.  The Climate of San Francisco
21.  Los Dolores
22.  San José Guadalupe
23.  Don Fernando Javier de Rivera y Moncada
24.  The Colorado River
25.  Lieutenant Charles Wilkes
26.  Bucaréli
27.  Concepcion Argüello
28.  Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo
29.  Pio Pico
30.  John A. Sutter
31.  John C. Frémont
32.  The Revolt of the Californians and the Affair at San Pedro
33.  The Donner Party
34.  The Overland Route
35.  The Military Governors of California
36.  Jacob Primer Leese
37.  Stockton and the Conquest of California
38.  Selim B. Woodworth
39.  Sam Brannan
40.  The Claim of Captain Phelps

ILLUSTRATIONS
1.  The Vision of Anza
2.  Ayala's Map of San Francisco Bay
3.  The Cementerio
4.  Sand-hills of the Colorado Desert
5.  Mud Volcanoes of the Colorado Desert
6.  Carrizo Creek, Colorado Desert
7.  A Soldado de Cuera
8.  Routes of Anza's Expeditions
9.  The Trail on the Gila
10.  The Route Across the Colorado Desert
11.  The Palo Alto. San Francisquito Creek
12.  Font's Map of Entrance to San Francisco Bay
13.  Font's Map of Explorations, Monterey to San Francisco
14.  Mission of San Francisco de Asis
15.  California Indians
16.  Port of Monterey, 1846
17.  Port of San Diego, 1840
18.  Vallejo Reviewing His Troops at Sonoma
19.  The San Cárlos Entering the Bay of San Francisco, 1775
20.  Las Tinajas Altas. One of the Upper Tanks
21.  Las Tinajas Altas. The Lower Tank
22.  Laguna de Manantial
23.  Mariano Guadalupe Vallejo
24.  Yerba Buena Cove and Island
25.  Vancouver's Map of the Entrance to San Francisco Bay
26.  Richardson's Plan of Yerba Buena, 1835
27.  San Francisco in 1837
28.  Jacob P. Leese
29.  Rosalia Leese
30.  Vioget's Survey of Yerba Buena, 1839
31.  The Alcalde Map of San Francisco, 1847
32.  San Francisco in 1846
33.  Custom House, San Francisco
34.  The Limantour Diseño
35.  The Limantour Claim
36.  New York Store, Montgomery Street
37.  San Francisco in 1849
38.  Prison Brig Euphemia and Ship Apollo
39.  The Overland Route, Missouri River to South Pass
40.  The Overland Route, South Pass to California
41.  Brigadier-General Stephen W. Kearny
42.  San Pascual. The Charge of the Caballeros
43.  Colonel Richard B. Mason
44.  Brigadier-General Bennet Riley
45.  Entrance to Bay of San Francisco in 1852
46.  Presidio of San Francisco in 1820
47.  The Military Reservation in 1847